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| | Seeds from Italy News
Vol 6, # 3, Sep 2006
We publish four times a year (usually) and include information on all aspects of Italian vegetables, herbs and flowers: selecting, growing, harvesting and storing and cooking. We would be happy to receive and if space permits, publish your experiences in these areas.
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1. Privacy Policy
2. Garlic from Italy on the Way
3. Garlic Festival
4. Reader Recipes, pickled peppers.
5. Cima di rapa (broccoli rabe) one more time
6. Trial Results, New Varieties for 2006
7. Growing Tip, Staking pepper & eggplant.
8. New Zucchini Trial Results: Friuli, Lunga Bianco di Palermo & San
Pasquale
9. Reader Comments
10. Recipe: potatoes, pepper & onions; grilled tomato/bruschetta
11. Franchi Flowers
12. Preview of items for next year and requests for new varieties.
13. Retail Outlets
14. A Reader Sends in Some Information on Lampascioni
15. Customer Recipe. Zucchini & a spinach pie from a Chef
16. BLT
The newsletter is on line. You can read it there and view photos of the various things mentioned below. If you want to read on line, go to:
http://growitalian.com/
1. Privacy Policy. A number of people on their order forms asked me not to sell or divulge their personal information: address, telephone numbers, email addresses, etc. I want everyone to understand that I take privacy very seriously. I never disclose any customer information to anyone under any circumstances. I have been bothered by too many telemarketers, received too much junk email to do that to anyone else. I don't even keep credit card numbers: a number of customers who reordered and told me to use their credit card number on file were surprised when I told them I do not keep them on my computer, nor do I have access to them from the credit card authorizing service.
2. Garlic is available. This year I will have three varieties from Italy. Rosso di
Sulmona. This is a red hardneck from abruzzo. It is famous all over italy. I will also have bianco
piacentino. This is a large white softneck from Tuscany which will grow well in all climates (I grew it last year with good success). Finally, will have viola
francese, a very large purple softneck. They should arrive sometime in mid September (they are going to ship as soon as they reopen after August holiday). The web site is turned on so you can order from there and you can also call in orders - 781 721 5904. While I should have a pretty good supply, I would recommend ordering within the
next six weeks to ensure you get what you want. Prices are 8.85 per half pound for the sulmona &
piacentino; 9.25 for the viola francese. Last year I grew the rosso
sulmona & the piacentino here in New England. Even with a very strange
winter (very warm, so it was hard to keep it from growing during parts of the
winter) and twenty inches of rain in May & June, it did well. It was
earlier than most garlics I have planted; I picked it around July 20th
whereas normally I pull garlic sometime in early August. Size of the
sulmona was a bit smaller than it should have been, but then that was probably
due to the very heavy rain leaching fertility out of the soil (and because for
some reason I never cut the scapes). Taste is excellent. I am
impressed.
Rosso sulmona is on the left. The Piacentina is on the right.
Notice the bulge about two inches up from the clove. It is a seed
pod; there are a couple of garlic cloves in there.
3. Garlic Festival. Those of you who live in New England should consider going to the North Quabbin Garlic & Arts Festival, also known as "The Festival that Stinks". This year it is on Saturday & Sunday, Sep 16 & 17, from 10AM to 5PM. It will be held at Forster Farm, 60 Chestnut Hill Road, Orange, MA. Lots of regional growers and artists, plenty of food & garlic
garlore. There will also be two solar powered stages with great music and family
entertainment throughout the weekend. Admission is $4 for adults, $7 for
weekend pass, kids 12 and under free. I plan on being there with my garlic as well as seeds, some rigamonti cooking tools & some samples. Hope to see you there.
Here is a link to information on the festival: www.garlicandarts.org
4. Pickled Peppers. A number of people have requested recipes for pickling peppers. Here are two from a couple of subscribers plus a tip for preserving tomatoes.
This is from Linda Langness in Idaho
Because I usually enter my canned foods in our local county fair (very rural
north Idaho), I usually can my peppers according to the vinegar/water
ratios, pickling salt amount, and processing times in the Kerr or Ball
guides to canning. But then I put my own touch on the peppers, adding garlic
or a bit of sugar, putting in something else, and so forth. I read once
that the peppers needed to have a slit cut into them to can well, but two
years ago my Baci di Satana peppers were so beautiful in colors of red,
yellow, and green, that I couldn't bring myself to put a knife into them,
and they turned out to be so beautiful that I could barely bring myself to
open a jar. I guess the large, longer peppers would require the slit. So,
good luck with your canning! I adore canned peppers!
As for tomatoes, I found the best idea for an abundant crop. Because of our
short growing season, I usually bring green tomatoes into my sunroom, and I
have them ripening until December. An over-abundance of San Marzanos one
year, left me with boxes of green tomatoes, that would all turn red at once,
and I had no room in my freezer. So I put them baking and casserole dishes
in my oven, along with some peeled garlic and onions, sometimes with
balsamic vinegar, and roasted them in the evening until the juices were
beginning to evaporate and the skins carmelizing, turned off the oven, left
them overnight, and in the morning put them in the food processor in order
to break down the skins. Then I canned them with the appropriate bit of
lemon juice in a boiling water bath and all year long I had my own tomato
paste/spread/passata. It was so good I do it every year now.
Best regards,
Linda Langness
These two are from Cristina Cerruti
to pickle hot peppers in vinegar:
1st receipe Hot peppers in vinegar
ingredients for the liquid (you can increase the liquid maintaining the proportions of the ingredients):
1 lt. of white wine vinegar (no substitutions), half liter of water,
5 whole cloves, salt, 5 bay leafs
gently clean the peppers with a dry cloth, leave the stems on. Arrange them in a clean glass jar adding a bay leaf in each of the layers. Boil water, white wine vinegar (it is important is the real vinegar NO SUBSTITUTION), salt, bay leafs, cloves, bring to a boil for a few minutes. Let cool a little and add the liquid to the jars when it is still warm. Make sure the peppers stay covered with the liquid, if not put a plastic (food grade) weight on top of them. Close the jars and keep them in a dark cool place. They will be ready after 2 months. I do not normally sterilize the jars and the peppers last very well for more than a year. This is the way I do and I know they keep in perfect conditions for a very long time but if you do not feel safe sterilize them as you would normally do according to the jar size.
2nd receipe Hot peppers in vinegar
ingredients for a 1 lt. jar: 700 gr. peppers, 700 gr. white wine
vinegar (no substitution), salt
gently clean the peppers with a dry cloth, leave the stems on. Line them, in on layer, and expose them to the sun for one day turning them once (if it is difficult because the weather does nor help, skip this part and put them in a canning jar) Put them in the canning jar. Bring the white wine vinegar with some salt to a boil and pour it on the peppers when still hot. When the liquid is cool (make sure the peppers are always under the vinegar if not add some, if they float put a plastic -food grade- on top of them) close the jars and keep them in a dark cool place. You can use them after 2 months. They will keep well for 2 years. this is the way I do and I know they stay in perfect conditions for a very long time but if you do not feel safe sterilize them as you would normally do according to the jar size.
5. Cima di rapa (broccoli rabe) one more time. Some time ago, I did a piece on cima di rapa but I think I need to do an update. I have had a number of comments from customers who had trouble growing it successfully. In addition, I have found a source in Puglia for some different varieties and so I want to include information on these. This is best read on line where you can look at the photos from the trials I did this spring & summer.
I sowed some varieties from Puglia on 11 June. Put out the cima grande sel
fasano (40 and 60 day) plus the grossima san martino (which I will stock next
year). These are all really big plants and have quite large 'heads'.
They also make fairly significant side shoots, especially the grossima san
martino.
Growing cima di rapa. It is really simple if you follow a few simple rules. First, you can grow it at any time of the year. You do NOT have to grow it in cool weather (how cool do you think it gets in
Bari?) Make sure you have relatively fertile soil. Direct seed (transplants usually will bolt and are just a waste of time since it is such a fast grower.) Sow seeds in rows spaced 12" or so apart.
Try and space a seed per inch, but it never works out that way since the
seeds are tiny. No matter. It will be up in three days or so. Here are some
photos of cima di rapa sown on June 11th. As you can see I did not succeed
in getting them spaced an inch apart. Here is the row after the first
thinning done about 20 June. This is still way to close, but it is a decent initial thinning. At this
stage, it grows fairly quickly and you will have to make a final thinning in a
week or so. On 27 June, I thinned it to four or five inches apart for the
40 day variety & 6 inches apart for the 60 day variety. You could even
go a little more.
If you are a farmer, there is no need to do two thinnings; I just do it that way to get some greens for the salad and also
to guard against loss to the small plants from bugs & woodchucks. At this point, it grows very quickly. All you need to do is make sure
it is well spaced and has a good supply of water. The trick now is to keep
it growing quickly. The 40 day variety should be ready in 25 to 30 days,
depending on the weather. The sixty day variety should be ready in 35 or
so days. Here are photos of the various varieties from Puglia on July 6th,
25 days after sowing seed.
The first photo is the 40 day cima grande sel fasano . The second photo
is the 60 day sel fasano taken on the 19th of July, 38 days after sowing.
The last photo is
is the grossima on the 19th; you can see it is not quite ready.
Notice how it has almost no stem. It makes it head close to the
ground. Here is one of the head of one of the grossima types:
Harvesting. In Puglia I am told that folks prefer to harvest & eat
only the heads and I have to admit they are really good by themselves. The
cima grande varieties and the grossima make really good sized heads and if you
have a decent sized patch, you can pick just the heads. As soon as the
head is fully formed, just reach in and snap it off. You should get the
head and four inches or so of really tender stem (absolutely no strings, tender
and crunchy).
If you leave the plants in the ground after the initial harvest, you will get
side shoots growing. They can get pretty good sized on the grossima type
and fair sized on the others. Side shoots grow very quickly so check every
day. You could also cut the entire head and eat the leaves as well.
They are very tender and tasty. to the left is a photo of the side shoots of the
grossima. I let them go a bit to seed so you could see them better.
Note for farmers. If you sell by weight, you are better off cutting the
entire plant, trimming off some of the really big outer leaves. It is
probably more trouble than it is worth to bother with harvesting side shoots if
you have a big patch of cima di rapa. Also,
consider the fact that it takes 35 or so days to grow the 60 day sel fasano to
maturity. A single plant, well trimmed, weighs five or so ounces so you
only need three or four plants to the pound. My brother the farmer
says this is very good (his motto is weight is good) and has become a convert to cima di rapa.
Cooking cima di rapa. You can use it as a side vegetable or with pasta or
potatoes, etc. There are recipes all over, including a few here in the
recipe section. The general rule is first boil it in water until
done. Drain (save the water), chop to size desired. Cook it in some
olive oil with garlic, a bit of red pepper flakes to taste & an anchovy or
two (if desired). You can also add some minced onions and/or pine nuts
when you are cooking the garlic & pepper flakes. Add the cima di rapa
(and any of the reserved water if you need it) and cook until the flavors are
well melded. You can then add pasta or potato (this is when you would
normally need the reserved water.) Finish off with some good grating
cheese.
6. Trial Results, New Varieties for 2006 Here are some brief notes on new
items trialed during 2006.
a. Wild Arugula sel liscia (smooth), aka olive leaf
arugula. This is the standard wild arugula grown in Southern Italy and
while I have had it
for sale in the past, I finally have a consistent source, a seed
company in Bari. Wild arugula is about 50-60 days to maturity and lends
itself to multiple picks. The taste of this variety is outstanding.
It is crunchy, has a really smooth (not especially hot) taste and if
you let it go to seed, will become a perennial in the garden. I was really
impressed with this variety. Use in salads, pasta dishes, etc. The
classic way to serve a salad with this is to have just the arugula, some cherry
tomatoes, olive oil & salt (no vinegar). Here is a photo of the sel
liscia about fifty-five days after sowing.
b. St Pierre Tomato. This is a standard in the
produce markets of France and now I know why. It was the first full size
tomato to produce in the garden this year (a day or two before cuor di bue).
The plant is a pretty good sized indeterminate and makes sets of three to five
fruit. Fruit run 8-9 ounces for the most part and are brilliant red when
ripe. Taste is very good. Fruit shape is perfect. It seems to have pretty good resistance to leaf spot diseases which
are always a problem for
me, especially this year when we have had more than twenty inches of rain since
May. In short this
is a really nice tomato; definitely a keeper. Good for home gardeners & farmers may want to
try it rather than growing some of the standard early varieties which to my mind
do not have a whole lot of taste. Here is a photo of the St. Pierre.
c. Scuplit. This is one of those uniquely Italian
'aromatics'. It is virtually unknown outside of Italy (I had never seen or
heard of it until I took a closer look at the Franchi Catalog earlier this
year. It is an annual, easy to grow & is ready is 50 or 60 days.
Texture is kind of crunchy with a delicate mild taste. In Italy it is
traditionally used in egg dishes but also in salads. The photo I have
shows a not quite mature patch of scuplit which is definitely spaced too
closely. This is 35 or so days after planting.
d. Basil, San Valentino. This is from Abruzzo and is a very large
leaf basil. Light green in color with very assertive basil flavor.
This is definitely not a mild lettuce leaf type. Taste is similar to the
darker green Napoleatano basil. The hand in the picture is mine which is
not all that small and gives you an idea of the size of the leaves. It is
a worthy addition.
e. Bush Bean, anellino di Trento. This is one of the curved
anellino beans and as far as I know, the only one which is a bush bean. They are fairly small (four or so inches), light green and get that
marbeling when they are mature. You can pick them at any stage.
Taste is exactly like a roma type. They are good cooked or raw; if
you plan to eat them raw, pick them just as they turn color. They are
really pretty and I love the taste. Production was good. A nice
bean.
f. Bean towers, the experiment that failed. For bean towers, I
usually go into the woods behind the garden and cut some 8-10 foot
saplings. Most of them are Norway Maple, unfortunately, and tend to last
only one season. This year I decided to use some 10 foot lengths of pvc
water pipe as bean towers and concluded that I was pretty clever since they only
cost eighty cents or so each (my wife the esthetic observed that the color was
not very appropriate). Well, save your money. What happens is that
the weight of the bean plants is so great that the pvc pipe collapses. All
of my towers (except the one made from Norway Maple) collapsed and now I have
this great mass of bean plants which
are not making
much in the way of beans. Live and learn.
7. Growing Tip, Staking pepper & eggplant. Staking peppers & eggplant. Very often my
pepper
plants flop over, especially the plants with big fruit such as corno rosso.
This is a simple way of staking plants to prevent this. Put a three foot
or so stake between every two plants. Tie some string to the end stake
and walk down the row, weaving the string around the plants. From the
stake, for example, go to the left of the first plant, then to the right of
the second plant, loop it around the stake, then left, right, etc. At
the end of the row, loop it around the final stake. Then go back down
the row weaving the opposite of the other side. Each plant is enclosed
by a 'basket' of string. I make the first tie perhaps 12"
high. A week or two later, I will do another tie, perhaps 8"
higher. Usually two ties are sufficient. It is pretty simple and
very efficient. Here is a photo of a group of peppers with two
ties. None of them are flopping in the dirt with the various bugs &
worms.
8. New Zucchini Trial Results: Friuli, Lunga Bianco di Palermo & San
Pasquale. Just what everyone needs, three more Italian Zucchini
varieties. Actually, there are all a bit different than many of the
other zucchini I have and they have some very interesting
characteristics.
The Friuli is from the Veneto and is described as a
zuchetta, not a zucchini. Usually this means it is a vining squash kind
of like tromba d'albenga or serpent of sicily. While it is a big plant
and may run six or so feet, that is not
that much more than some other Italian zucchini. It is a bit later than most
zucchini, perhaps a week or more longer to produce
fruit. Flowers, however, come on early & strong. It produces
an amazing quantity of male flowers. One morning I counted almost twenty
of them on one of the plants. Fruit are yellow, not as ugly as I had
been led to believe, and taste very good. Fruit are very solid with
little water. Flower holds well on the fruit. The photo on the
left is a six inch long friuli, the perfect size to pick them. I could
not resist the photo on the left, a group of baby friuli zucchini.
The Lunga Bianco di Palermo is another runner that will
go six or so feet with no problem. Leaves are huge and
look more like a winter
squash than a zucchini. It should climb a trellis. Fruit are pale
green and look similar to the long white of Sicily (which makes sense since
Palermo is in Sicily).
It too produces an amazing quantity of huge male flowers; take a look at the
flowers next to those leaves which are probably fifteen inches across. Fruit seem somewhat
less ridged than the long white of sicily, though I find it hard to tell much
of a significant difference other than flower quantity. In the
photo on the left, you can already see signs of ridges although the fruit is
no more than six inches long.
San Pasquale. This is a variety commonly found in
Southern Italy. It is a small bushy plant. It does not run.
It is extremely early and produces a goodly quantity of nice tasting dark
green/light green ribbed fruit. Leaves are fairly small. Male
flower production is normal. This is a plant for producing zucchini, not
flowers. Quite honestly, it is one of the few Italian zucchini I have
seen that is so compact. Nice plant.
9. Reader Comments. I have to make a observation on one of the
comments below. One compliment concerned the size of the seed
packages. Most of them were large enough for his garden of two acres,
but a few were too small; only an Italian packet could take care of that size garden.
Buon Giorno Amigo:
I am one of your satisfied customers.
The six varieties of tomatoes; "calabrese" broccoli,
cucuzelli, eggplants, red cauliflower, cucumbers, as well as
the basil all germinated well. The marconi peppers were little slow
but, they responded.
The broccoli, red cauliflower, and basil envelopes contained enough
seed for all of Central New York. The cucumber envelopes were a
little skimpy with seed. Every other seed package was just right
for my size of garden (about 2 acres).
You can use the above statements as a fully happy customer.
Talk to you next year. Grazie.
Tony Leotta
Oswego, New York
(on the southeast shore of the great Lake Ontario)
Hi Bill,
Just writing to let you know how pleased we are the vegetable varieties we received. Our CSA members and other customers have been intrigued by the squash and cucumber varieties. I can't wait for the beans and tomatoes, the plants look good. The squash, especially the 'Tondo Chiaro di Nizza' and 'Rugosa friulana' are amazing. And the chard, ' Bionda da Taglio' is beautiful. Also, I like the Barese. I had some others but I will update you as the Summer progresses.
Thanks,
John Wright
Graceland Farm
10. Recipes from the garden
Potatoes, pepper & onions When I
was a kid, this was always one of my favorites. While not for folks on a
diet, it is really not all that bad in the calorie department. For two people,
cut up two waxy potatoes (if you have something right out of the garden,
perfect) into similar sized slices (I leave the skin on & make the slices
about 1/8" by 1/4". Seed & slice up the long way some
peppers (if you grew one of the frying peppers like frieriello, they are
perfect; otherwise any pepper will do). Cut up a cup or so of
onion in fair sized slices. If you have a little zucchini or two,
perfect. Put 2-3 tablespoons of olive oil on the
bottom of a heavy pan, add the peppers, onions & potatoes. Cook on
medium heat until they get browned some (ten minutes?) Turn from time to
time with a spatula. Lower the heat, add the zucchini if you are using
them. Cook a bit more, then put on a cover and cook until done.
Add salt & pepper. When my wife is not around that is a summer meal
for me along with a salad.
Grilled tomato. Mince some garlic & rough chop basil. Thickly slice some tomatoes (if using something
like Red Pear or Pantano, slice them at least 1/4 inch thick; if using a
plum tomato, slice in half lengthwise.). Brush with the mixture.
Put on the high shelf of a grill & cook, turning once. A minute or
two before you take it off, put some grated parmesan cheese on the tomato or
some other good Italian cheese. You want them to have changed texture
but not to have browned. You can serve them as a side vegetable.
Another option is to grill some bread you brushed with olive oil until golden,
remove, rub with garlic & top with the tomato & perhaps a leaf of
lettuce leaf basil.
11. Franchi Flowers. I have never been much of a flower
guy; I grew up on a farm & the rule of thumb was if you could not
sell it or eat it, why bother growing it. Well, I am a lot older now and
times are different. Over the years, a number of my retail outlet
customers & some market growers have sent in glowing reports on Franchi
Flowers. They tell me that the colors are really vibrant & the
flowers are vigorous and large. So this year I started a bunch of
different flowers having no idea what to expect. also, since my old hoophouse blew down over the winter,
the flowers had to go up to my
brother's greenhouse once they got big enough to be transplanted. They
did not receive my usual constant care and some of them got pretty
leggy.
However, I have been very pleased. The
zinnias were really impressive. They are now close to four feet tall
& have been flowering all summer. Colors are great, especially the
reds. The galliarda (blanket flower) are out in front of the old stone
wall and so only get morning sun, but they are really turning into a
show. I was very impressed with the lemon gem marigold. The
flowers are very small (perhaps 3/4 or an inch) but incredibly prolific &
look great with the green foliage. Best of all, you do not have to dead
head them. What a blessing. Rudbeckia was also impressive. I
was even more impressed when I saw pots of rudbeckia down the local garden
center. The pots were $12.99 & the flowers were half the size
and no where near as vibrant. I guess my customers were right.
Lemon
Gem
Rudbeckia
Zinnia
Galliarda
12. Preview of items for next year and requests for new varieties. It is
getting on to time for me to do my ordering for next year. If there is
something you have grown that you think is worthy or know of a variety that
others would like, drop me a note. Give me as much information as
possible. Several people have mentioned zolfino bean; I think I
have found a source and hope to have it next year. I also will probably
have the solid red poppy you find all over Italy and a zucchino da fiore (it
doesn't make many fruit, but does it ever produce flowers), another cima di
rapa & some more peppers from Southern Italy. It should be fun.
13. Win an Italian Garden (ten packs of seeds actually). In addition
to mail order, I also distribute to retail outlets in the Northeast and just
about anywhere else where there is not a Franchi agent. I distribute to both
garden centers and also to larger Italian Markets. My best customers
tend to be Italian Markets, though large garden centers in the right kind of
area do well also. If any of you provide me with the name of a place that
subsequently decides to become a retail outlet, you will receive ten packs of
Franchi seeds. The ideal place is a large busy Italian Market with a lot of
traffic through the store or a large garden center in an area where there is a
fair sized Italian population. I am especially interested in finding an outlet
on Arthur Ave in the Bronx and 9th Street in Philadelphia. For those of
you who sent in tips a few months ago, I am now following up. (this is
the time to chase down retail outlets during their slow season).
14. A Reader Sends in Some Information on Lampascioni.
Lampascioni (cipollotti amari) Lampascioni, typical of Apulian and Basilicata
cuisine, are a kind of wild onions tasting bitterish and growing naturally in uncultivated
lands. In fact, you find them by ploughing the land. You can eat them in oil, in salad or in
omelette. Unlike usual onions, lampascioni taste more bitterish and need 4 or 5 years to grow before
being picked. In northern Italy they are not so well-known even though they were picked and eaten
in the past. Lampascione was already well-known for its aphrodisiac powers in the days of the Latin poet
Ovidio.
Oh, a topic on which I can write a bit !!
Lampascioni is Apulian slang, you won't be easily understood from other Italians, if they have
never heard before. It's Muscari comosum or Leopoldia comosa now.Yes, they are very appreciated here, but nowadays
they are all cultivated bulbs, mainly imported from Morocco and Tunisie, so I would assume they also eat them.
They are prepared in several ways, but all start with the boiling of the bulbs, to remove the
excess of bitterness (spelling right?). Then the bulbs can be served simply with olive oil and
pepper, as a salad with bread and small tomatos (pomodorini). Alternatively, the boiled bulbs are
squeezed and mixed with eggs and flour, grated cheese,parsley and fried all together.
Another way is boiled in water and vinegar, in the same way for
eggplants/aubergines or artichokes and them stored in glass with olive oil.
There's no garlic flavour in them anyway, but rightly a mix of mushrooms with a touch of bitter, that is...lampascioni !
I have always wondered why and how people started to eat these bulbs, considering that they grow
deep a foot ot more and the work to dig would be more expensive in terms of kcal that those earned by eating !!
Two ways to say involves lampascioni too. To indicate something hard and lenghty to reach
we say " if you want lampascioni you have to dig ! " Also it indicates anyone being tall and slim and
a bit dull, we say " he's a lampascione" figuratively referring to flower.
enjoy
Angelo
____________________________________________
http://blogs.san-lorenzo.com/fiordizucca/wild_food/
This is a gift from my mother who leaves in the south of Italy, now dated a couple of weeks back.
Fortunately, these can last long by storing them in a dry and cold place, maybe on the terrace,
considering these days' temperatures. The Lampascioni are for all Apulian a delicious
treat. The scientific name of this flower bulb, because this is what it is, is Muscari comosum, a
wild flower which grows all over Italy. I am not sure if this bulb is used for cooking in other
Italian regions but in Apulia they are never missed on the table, particularly during winter
time. The Lampascione looks a bit like a little onions or shallots. They can be cooked in a few
different ways, the most common being: boiled and served with olive oil, fried, with tomatoes, with
dry salted cod (Baccalá) or preserved in oil. They must be cleaned as an onion and left in cold
water for some time to remove all the remaining soil. In the Murgia, the wildest Apulian region,
they are often cooked under hot wooden ashes then dressed with olive oil and salt. That's the best
way to maintain their wild taste. If you know where to find these in England, please let me know!
Ingredients : Lampascioni, extravirgin olive oil, vinegar, salt, pepper
Peel the lampascioni as you would peel an onion, removing the external side covered by earth. Soak
them in water and leave it overnight. Boil them in hot water from 20 to 30 minutes, until they
are soft.Drain them, put it in a dish and crash them with a fork one by one. Drizzle with lots of
extravirgin olive oil, a bit of vinegar, salt and pepper
15. Customer Recipe. Zucchini & a spinach pie from a
Chef. I got to talking with a customer today. I talked about how I
got into doing Seeds from Italy & he told me about his cooking school and
his dreams. I asked if he was interested in donating a recipe or
two. He was and here they are. These are courtesy of Justin
Naylor who is from Delaware. If you would like to find out more about
his cooking classes, visit his web site: www.classicitaliancooking.com
My mother used to fry her zucchini a bit differently, but I think that fried
zukes are one of the garden's greatest gifts. The spinach pie is one I
have to try as soon as my matador is ready. Enjoy.
Recipes from
Justin Naylor of Classic Italian Cooking in Wilmington, DE
www.classicitaliancooking.com
Spinach Pie from Emilia
I learned this classic and traditional spinach pie from
Anna Brevini, who farms near Scandiano in Emilia-Romagna.
It’s a great way to use up extra spinach in the fall.
To make the crust, cut 12 Tbspns cold butter into 2 cups
flour and 1 tspn salt until the butter pieces are the size of small peas.
Very slowly drizzle in a Tbspn or two of cold water.
Continue adding water just a little at a time until the dough just
holds together, using your hands gently to form the dough into a ball if
necessary. It might take up to ½
cup of water or so. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for 30 to 60
minutes.
While the dough is chilling, steam about 1 pound of
spinach in a pot with ½ inch of abundantly salted water for just a few
minutes, until wilted and tender. When
the spinach is cool enough to handle, squeeze out as much liquid as possible
and chop coarsely.
In a sauté pan, sauté about ½ cup chopped onion in
butter until golden, and then add some pancetta, chopped garlic, and parsley,
cooking until the pancetta is colored but not crisp.
Allow the mixture to cool somewhat, and then combine it with an egg, ½
cup parmigiano, salt, pepper, maybe some bread crumbs, and maybe even some
nutmeg if you like. Taste and
correct for salt.
Take the dough from the refrigerator and divide it into
two parts. Roll out one until it
is a little less than ¼ inch thick. Place
it in a pie plate and add the spinach roll.
Roll out the second crust and place it on top. Cut two slashes for ventilation, and brush a beaten egg all
over the top crust. Bake at 350
for 30 to 45 minutes, until the crust is a lovely olden-brown.
Zucchini Fried in a Pastella Batter
Fried food gets a bad rap today because of badly fried
and unhealthy fast foods. Frying
done right, however, produces delicious and light results, and Italian are
masters of the method.. This
batter is a perfect example.
Slice some zucchini into slices 1/8 inch thick.
In a bowl, combine some water and flour in roughly equal parts,
favoring the water slightly (around 1/3 cup flour for ½ cup water, but
experiment). Put enough oil
(olive oil or vegetable oil) in a pan so that it comes up ½ to ¾ inch up the
sides, and heat it to 375 degrees or so (a slice of zucchini will instantly
and vigorously sizzle when the oil is hot enough). Toss the zucchini slices thoroughly with the batter, and fry
about a minute on each side, until nicely colored (don’t crowd the zucchini,
frying in batches if necessary). As
they come out of the oil, drain on paper towels and then toss in a bowl with
salt. Serve at once.
16. BLT. What does Seeds from Italy have to do with a BLT aka
bacon, lettuce & tomato. How non-Italian can this be: bacon,
usually smoked with something (more likely smoke flavor), cain's mayonaise,
etc. No pancetta here. Well, there is a connection for me, a
couple of them actually. My wife & I try to eat 'well' which each of
us defines a bit differently, but in general we concur that junk food is out,
stuff from the garden is good, olive oil is (me, great; her, avoided
like all oils). BLT's made with the real article, however, are not junk
food and are defined as good.
We also very much enjoy eating with our family, even
though the young male members prefer eating something from the forbidden fast
food places, usually accompanied by fries and a carbonated drink. The
exception is dad's BLT's. So the ripening of the first Red Pear tomato
is a cause for celebration and BLT's. Why Red Pear? It is the
perfect BLT tomato. First, it is huge. A slice covers an entire
piece of bread. It tastes incredibly good. The skin is thin.
Juice drips everywhere. Texture is pefect. It is the only tomato
capable of inaugurating BLT season. The ceremony occurs after the
first 16 ounce Red Pear ripens.
Tonight was the night. I called my wife and told
her to stop on her way home from work at the bakery and get a loaf of really
good tuscan bread (actually it is not tuscan bread since it has salt in it,
but that actually makes it better. Who would eat saltless bread,
especially for a BLT.) I called the sons and invited them over for
BLT's. Cooked the bacon (apple smoked?, but who cares). Went to the
garden. Picked three huge Red Pear tomatoes. Not enough I
thought. However, there were a bunch of ripe St. Pierre (these may
now be my second favorite tomatoes). Washed some crunchy lettuce.
Got out the Cain's mayonaise (Best Food west of the Mississippi River?).
Laid out a spread. Summer is here. They were really good.
Good growing and may your garden be woodchuck & deer free.
Bill McKay
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